Adriatic Jh Fig

Most people in San Diego think a ripe fig has to be black or purple, but I’m here to tell you that the real magic happens in green. When I first planted my orchard in the hills just east of Del Mar, I was obsessed with the classics, but everything changed when I introduced the Adriatic Jh to my collection. This isn’t just another fig variety; it is arguably the finest tasting fruit I have ever pulled from a tree in Southern California. The skin stays a pale, deceptive green, while the interior transforms into a brilliant, blood-red strawberry jam that practically drips with sugar.

Emily Rodriguez

The Adriatic Jh (often linked to the "John" or "Joseph" strains circulating among collectors) is a specific cultivar of Ficus carica. You might hear locals call it the "Strawberry Fig" or confuse it with the "Green Ischia" or "Verte," but a true Adriatic Jh stands apart.

It has a distinct resistance to splitting—a common heartache for coastal growers dealing with June gloom or unexpected humidity—and a flavor profile that makes store-bought Fig Newtons taste like cardboard. Getting this tree to thrive requires ignoring generic garden advice and dialing in specific metrics.

The Adriatic Jh doesn’t just produce fruit; it produces candy that hangs from a branch.

Understanding the Adriatic Jh: More Than Just a Green Fig

The botanical history of this fig is a bit murky, rooted in Italian heritage but perfected by American enthusiasts. Unlike the Black Mission figs that dominate our local farmers’ markets, the Adriatic Jh maintains a greenish-yellow skin even when fully ripe. This often tricks birds and novices alike, which is a massive advantage for us growers. The “Jh” suffix denotes a superior strain identified by collectors for its ability to ripen properly without fermenting on the branch.

Here at Exotic Fruits and Vegetables, we’ve found that the Adriatic Jh possesses a tighter ostiole (the eye of the fig) than standard Adriatics. This morphological difference is crucial because a tight eye prevents beetles and souring bacteria from entering the fruit, a feature that saves about 30% of my harvest annually. The leaf pattern is deeply lobed, often resembling a snowflake, making the tree ornamental even when bare of fruit.

Taxonomists and serious collectors distinguish the Jh strain by its slower growth habit but significantly higher sugar brix content, often exceeding 25% when caprified or grown in high heat.

Site Selection and Soil Preparation

You cannot simply dig a hole in our heavy San Diego clay and expect this Mediterranean native to perform. I learned this the hard way six years ago when I lost two saplings to root rot because I treated the soil like a generic planting medium. Ficus carica needs oxygen at the root zone just as much as it needs water.

My current success rate comes from planting on a slight mound. I build a berm 8 inches above the native soil line using a mix of 40% native clay, 40% coarse sand, and 20% aged compost. This elevation ensures that during our “atmospheric river” events in winter, the crown never sits in standing water.

I aim for a soil pH between 6.0 and 6.5. If your soil test comes back alkaline (common here with our Colorado River water), adding elemental sulfur at a rate of 5 pounds per 1,000 square feet helps lower that pH over time.

Never amend the planting hole with rich potting soil alone; this creates a “bathtub effect” where water gets trapped in the hole by the surrounding clay, drowning your tree within weeks.

Watering: The Fine Line Between Sweetness and Splitting

Water management is the single most critical factor in growing the Adriatic Jh. Ever wonder why some fruits split before ripening? It usually happens when a tree receives a massive influx of water after a dry spell, causing the internal pressure to rupture the skin. To prevent this, I maintain consistent, moderate moisture.

For established trees, I run drip irrigation delivering 15 gallons of water every 10 days during the growing season (April through October). When the fruit begins to swell and change color (the “breba” or main crop ripening phase), I cut water back by 50%. This forces the tree to concentrate sugars in the fruit rather than pumping it full of water, which dilutes the flavor.

Stop watering completely 10 days before your expected main harvest to maximize flavor intensity and prevent fermentation.

Fertilization Schedules

I don’t believe in weak, weekly feeding. My routine involves a heavy hit of organic 10-10-10 granular fertilizer right as the buds break in late February. I apply 1 pound of fertilizer for every year of the tree’s age, capping at 5 pounds for mature trees. I follow this up with a liquid fish emulsion drench (5-1-1) in May to support canopy growth.

Using fish emulsion smells terrible for a few hours, but the nitrogen boost gives the leaves a deep, dark green color that solarizes enough energy to ripen the late-season crop.

Pruning and Training for Maximum Yield

Think of pruning like giving the plant a haircut that lets the sun reach its scalp. If you don’t open up the center, you create a humid microclimate perfect for fungal rust. I use the “Open Center” vase method. In January, when the tree is dormant, I remove any branch growing inward or crossing another. I keep the tree topped at 7 feet so I can harvest without a ladder.

Our experience at Exotic Fruits and Vegetables has shown that aggressive winter pruning stimulates the new wood growth required for the main crop. The Adriatic Jh bears its main crop on the current year’s growth, so don’t be afraid to remove up to 40% of the previous year’s wood. I once thought I killed a tree by pruning it back to mere stubs, only to see it rebound with 6 feet of growth and 40 pounds of fruit by September.

Pest Management: Winning the War

San Diego is paradise for us, but also for the Green Fig Beetle (*Cotinis mutabilis*). These metallic clumsy flyers love the Adriatic Jh. I used to run out waving a broom, which was good cardio but ineffective farming. Now, I use organza bags. Specifically, I buy 4×6 inch green organza mesh bags and tie one over every single fig as it starts to swell.

It takes me about 3 hours to bag a large tree, but the ROI is undeniable. Before bagging, I lost 40% of the crop to beetles and birds. After bagging, I lose less than 5%. The bags also offer slight protection against the coastal morning mist, reducing the incidence of mold on the skin.

Do not use plastic bags that don’t breathe; you will essentially cook your figs in the San Diego sun, turning them into mushy, fermented heat-traps.

Harvesting: The Waiting Game

The hardest part of growing Adriatic Jh is knowing when to pick. If you pick it early, it will not ripen on the counter. It will just soften and taste like cucumber. You have to wait for the “neck droop.” The fig should hang completely limp, the skin should look slightly shriveled, and you might see a tiny drop of nectar at the eye.

I harvested 52 pounds of fruit from a single 6-year-old Adriatic Jh last September. The window is short—usually about 3 weeks—so you need to be ready to process or eat them immediately.

A perfectly ripe Adriatic Jh will feel heavy for its size, almost like a water balloon ready to burst, and the skin may show small “stretch marks” or cracks.

Culinary Applications and Storage

While fresh eating is the gold standard, the yield often outpaces my appetite. I dry about half my harvest. The Adriatic Jh dries beautifully because of its high sugar content; the result tastes like a high-end fruit roll-up. I simply slice them in half and dehydrate at 135°F for 12 hours.

As fruit enthusiasts at Exotic Fruits and Vegetables, we love pairing the fresh halves with goat cheese and a balsamic glaze. The acidity of the cheese cuts through the intense sweetness of the fig. Here is my go-to method for processing a bumper crop:

1. Wash and Prep: Gently rinse the figs in cold water and pat dry with a paper towel; remove the stems.
2. The Mash: Coarsely chop 5 pounds of figs and place them in a heavy-bottomed pot.
3. The Cook: Add 1 cup of lemon juice (no added sugar needed) and simmer on low for 2 hours until thick.
4. The Jarring: Pour into sterilized jars and water bath can for 10 minutes.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Even with the best care, things go wrong. Last season, I noticed yellow spotting on the leaves—Fig Mosaic Virus (FMV). Almost all Adriatic figs carry this virus. It’s genetic baggage. Does it kill the tree? No. Is it ugly? Sometimes. I mitigate FMV by keeping the tree extremely well-fed. A vigorous tree outgrows the symptoms.

Another issue is “sour fig,” caused by vinegar flies entering the ostiole. If you smell fermentation near your tree, find the leaking fruit and remove it immediately. One bad apple might not spoil the bunch, but one sour fig attracts the pests that will destroy the rest.

What’s the real secret to success with this variety? It’s accepting that you will lose some fruit to nature, but the ones you save will be the best things you eat all year.

Conclusion

Growing the Adriatic Jh in San Diego is a rewarding challenge that pays off in pounds of strawberry-jam-filled treasure. It requires you to be observant, patient, and precise with your water. I once ignored my soil drainage and paid the price, but adjusting my methods has given me a thriving orchard that neighbors envy.

Don’t be intimidated by the specific requirements. The resilience of the Adriatic Jh is surprising once it’s established. Treat the soil like a living entity, prune for airflow, and protect that precious fruit from the beetles.

The difference between a good fig and a world-class fig is often just three days of patience and a lack of water.

If you have space for just one tree in your backyard, skip the common varieties found at the big box stores. Hunt down a reputable cutting of this green wonder. The first time you bite into that crimson center, you’ll understand why I dedicate so much time to this specific cultivar.

• Climate Fit: Thrives in USDA Zones 8-10.
• Taste: Intense berry flavor, superior to Brown Turkey.
• Harvest: Late summer to early autumn.
• Space: Can be kept in a 15-gallon pot or grown in-ground.

Remember that figs do not ripen after being picked, so leave them on the branch until they droop completely.