Pineapple guava vs feijoa

Pineapple Guava Vs Feijoa feijoa

Standing in my orchard here in San Diego, surrounded by the sweet, musky scent of ripening fruit, I often get asked the same question by visitors who spot my rows of shrubby, grey-green trees. One visitor will point and excitedly shout, “Oh look, you have Feijoas!” while the person next to them frowns and corrects, “No, those are Pineapple Guavas.”

Emily Rodriguez
Emily Rodriguez
They both look at me, expecting a referee to step in and declare a winner. It is one of the most common debates I encounter, and honestly, it used to confuse me too when I first started breaking ground in this clay-heavy soil twenty years ago.

The truth behind the “Pineapple Guava vs Feijoa” debate is a bit of a trick question, but understanding the nuance is the difference between getting a bucket of tiny, tart marbles and harvesting crate after crate of large, aromatic, custard-like fruit.

Whether you call them by their Latin binomial Acca sellowiana (formerly Feijoa sellowiana), Guavasteen, or just plain old Pineapple Guava, we are talking about the same South American native. However, in the nursery trade, these names often signal two very different classes of plant quality.

In the horticultural world, “Pineapple Guava” is frequently used as a catch-all term for generic seedlings sold for landscaping hedges, whereas “Feijoa” is often reserved for specific, named cultivars bred for superior fruit production.

The Identity Crisis: Same Species, Different Purpose

Let’s clear the air immediately. Botanically, there is zero difference between a Pineapple Guava and a Feijoa. They are the same plant. It is not like comparing a peach to a nectarine; it is more like comparing a wild crabapple to a Honeycrisp.

Through our work with Exotic Fruits and Vegetables farm, we’ve found that the confusion usually leads to disappointment for home growers who buy a “Pineapple Guava” thinking they are getting top-tier fruit, only to find they bought a decorative hedge.

I learned this the hard way. Early on, I bought 50 generic “Pineapple Guava” plants to create a windbreak for my avocados. I treated them all the same, giving them 2 inches of water per week and mulch. Five years later, I had a great wall of green, but the fruit production was laughable—some trees gave me fruit the size of a thumb, while others gave me nothing at all. I realized I had planted a genetic lottery.

Ever wonder why some fruit trees in your neighborhood drop fruit that tastes like perfume while others taste like medicinal soap?

That flavor variance is the hallmark of seedlings. When you buy a plant labeled simply “Pineapple Guava,” you are almost certainly buying a seedling. It will be rugged, drought-tolerant once established, and great for screening your neighbor’s ugly fence, but the fruit is an afterthought. When you hunt for plants labeled “Feijoa,” specifically with cultivar names like ‘Nazemetz’, ‘Coolidge’, or ‘Mammoth’, you are buying a clone with guaranteed genetics.

Varieties That Perform in San Diego

San Diego’s climate is absolute magic for these plants. We sit in USDA Zones 9 and 10, but the Feijoa is hardy down to Zone 8 (roughly 12-15°F). They actually appreciate our cool coastal nights. For the best fruit production, you need roughly 50 to 100 chill hours—time spent between 32°F and 45°F—which we get naturally in inland valleys like El Cajon or Escondido during December and January.

Here is a breakdown of how the “Generic” compares to the “Named Varieties” I grow:

FeatureGeneric “Pineapple Guava” (Seedling)Named “Feijoa” Cultivars (Grafted/Cutting)
Primary UseLandscaping, Hedges, WindbreaksFresh Eating, Commercial Production
Fruit SizeSmall (0.5 – 1.5 inches), VariableLarge (2 – 4 inches), Consistent
Flavor ProfileOften tart, sometimes bitter or grittySweet, aromatic, mint-pineapple blend
Self-FertilityLow (Usually requires a second tree)Moderate to High (Cultivar dependent)
Price per 5-gal$25 – $35$55 – $75

Cultivation: Treating It Like a Fruit Tree, Not a Bush

If you want fruit, stop treating this plant like a privet hedge. Many locals stick them in the ground and walk away. While the plant will survive, it won’t thrive. To get those baseball-sized fruits, I apply a specific regimen. It starts with the soil. Our native San Diego soil is often heavy adobe clay or decomposed granite. Feijoas hate wet feet.

I mound my planting rows about 12 inches high. This ensures the crown of the root ball sits above the standing water line during our winter rains. For amendments, I don’t go crazy. I mix in 30% compost with the native soil. You don’t want the soil to be too rich, or the plant produces excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit.

Be careful with high-nitrogen fertilizers; using anything higher than an N-value of 8 will force the tree to push rapid green growth that is weak and susceptible to wind damage, while suppressing flower production.

Water is the real secret. These plants are drought-tolerant survivors, not drought-tolerant producers. During fruit set, which usually happens here in late May or June, water stress will cause the baby fruit to abort immediately. I run my drip irrigation to deliver 10 gallons of water per tree, once a week, from fruit set until harvest in late autumn. If we get a Santa Ana heatwave where temps hit 95°F with single-digit humidity, I double that frequency.

The Pollination Puzzle

What’s the real secret to success with Feijoas? Cross-pollination. Even varieties sold as “self-fertile” like the ‘Coolidge’ produce 30-40% more fruit when planted near a different variety. It’s like a party—the more guests you have mingling, the better the energy.

I once had a block of ‘Mammoth’ trees that produced poorly for three years. I planted a single ‘Apollo’ tree in the middle of the block, and the following season, the yield jumped from 15 pounds per tree to nearly 45 pounds. The bees work the flowers—which, by the way, are edible and taste like cotton candy—transferring pollen between the genetic lines.

For the average backyard grower in San Diego, planting one ‘Nazemetz’ and one ‘Coolidge’ is the bulletproof combination for consistent, high-quality harvests.

Harvesting: The Gravity Test

Harvesting Feijoa is unique because the fruit tells you when it’s ready. Unlike apples that you pull from the branch, a Feijoa is only perfectly ripe when it falls to the ground. If you pick it from the tree, it will be hard, astringent, and won’t ripen properly on the counter. It’s a bit like an avocado in that sense, but the drop is the signal.

However, this creates a problem. If the fruit hits hard, dry ground, it bruises instantly. Rot sets in within 24 hours. My solution? I keep a thick, 4-inch layer of straw mulch under the canopy during harvest season (September to December). It acts like a pillow.

Here is my daily harvest routine during the season:

  1. Walk the rows every morning before the sun gets high (around 7 AM).
  2. Gently shake the trunk of the tree. Any fruit that is ready but hasn’t fallen will drop with a light vibration.
  3. Collect fruit from the straw mulch immediately.
  4. Inspect for bruises; soft spots mean eat immediately, firm fruit goes into the fridge.
  5. Refrigerate immediately. At Exotic Fruits and Vegetables, we always recommend cooling them to 40°F within an hour of harvest to extend shelf life from 3 days to 3 weeks.

Never leave fallen fruit on the ground overnight; the scent is so powerful that it attracts every possum, rat, and raccoon within a mile radius, and they will hollow out your crop before sunrise.

Culinary Use: More Than Just “Tropical” Flavor

The flavor of a good Feijoa is complex. It’s not just “tropical.” Imagine blending a pineapple, a strawberry, and a granny smith apple, then adding a sprig of fresh mint. The texture is similar to a pear near the skin, turning to a jelly-like custard in the center.

As fruit enthusiasts at Exotic Fruits and Vegetables, we love showing people the proper way to eat them. You don’t eat the skin—it’s bitter and sour. You slice it in half equatorially and scoop out the inside with a spoon. It’s nature’s yogurt cup.

“Eating a Feijoa is like scooping a soft-boiled egg, but instead of yolk, you get a burst of floral, minty sweetness.”

Beyond fresh eating, they are high in pectin. I make a Feijoa chutney with ginger and onion that sells out at the farmer’s market in twenty minutes. The grit that people sometimes complain about—stone cells, similar to those in pears—is more prominent in the “Pineapple Guava” seedlings. The named cultivars generally have a smoother, more buttery texture.

Pros and Cons of Growing Feijoa in San Diego

If you are on the fence about dedicating space to this plant, here is my honest assessment after two decades of growing them.

  • Drought Resilience: Once established (after year 3), they can survive on very little water, though they won’t fruit well. They won’t die like a citrus tree would.
  • Pest Free: In San Diego, we have almost zero pests that target Feijoa. No leaf miners, no aphids, and the fruit fly larvae rarely penetrate the thick skin.
  • Aesthetic Value: The leaves are silver-backed and beautiful. The flowers are stunning red and white bursts that look like fireworks.
  • Mess Factor: This is the downside. During harvest, fruit drops daily. If you don’t pick it up, it rots and smells like fermenting alcohol.
  • Space Requirements: They can get big—15 feet tall and wide—if not pruned. I prune mine heavily in late winter to keep them at a manageable 7 feet.

Avoid planting Feijoas near swimming pools or concrete patios; the dropping fruit and flowers can stain hardscapes and clog skimmers remarkably fast.

Final Verdict

So, Pineapple Guava vs. Feijoa? The winner is the Feijoa, provided you understand that name refers to a grafted, superior variety. The generic Pineapple Guava has its place as a privacy screen, but if you want to experience the fruit that has captivated New Zealand and parts of California, you need to be specific with your nursery.

Do not settle for a label that just says “Pineapple Guava” unless you only want a hedge; hunt for ‘Nazemetz’, ‘Apollo’, or ‘Mammoth’ to get the real deal.

Growing these trees has been one of the most rewarding parts of my agricultural career. They ask for so little compared to the avocados and citrus that dominate our region, yet they give back a fruit that is almost impossible to find in mainstream grocery stores due to its short shelf life. It is the ultimate “grow it to eat it” crop.

If you plant a named variety this spring, water it deeply, and mulch it well, you will be scooping out your own homegrown custard cups within three years—and believe me, the wait is worth every second.

Alexander Mitchell
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Exotic fruits and vegetables
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  1. finley511

    I’ve found that using organic fertilizer with an NPK ratio of 10-10-10, like E.B. Stone Organics Bloom! 5-3-4, can significantly improve the yield and quality of Pineapple Guava fruits. I apply it at a rate of 2 lbs per 100 sqft, and it costs around $15 per bag. Soil testing results show a pH range of 6.0-6.5, which is ideal for these plants. I also use beneficial insects like lacewings to control pests, and it’s been a game-changer. Transitioning to organic methods took some time, but the results are worth it – I’ve seen a 20% increase in yield and can charge a premium price for my produce.

    Reply
    1. Exotic Fruits Team

      Regarding the use of organic fertilizer, it’s great to hear that you’ve seen an increase in yield and quality. However, it’s also important to note that Pineapple Guava plants can be sensitive to over-fertilization, so it’s crucial to monitor soil nutrient levels regularly. I’d recommend using a combination of soil testing and plant tissue analysis to determine the optimal fertilizer application rate. Additionally, have you considered using cover crops to improve soil health and reduce the need for external fertilizers?

      Reply
  2. WolfHelix

    When it comes to propagating Pineapple Guava, I’ve had success with grafting using a rootstock with high disease resistance ratings, like ‘Nana’ or ‘Meiwa’. The key is to use the right rooting hormone concentration – I use 0.1% IBA – and maintain a consistent temperature of 75-85°F and humidity level of 80-90%. The media composition is also crucial, I use a mix of peat moss and perlite. It takes around 6-8 months for the grafted plants to reach saleable size, and the cost per plant is around $5. I’ve also experimented with air layering, but the success rate is lower, around 30%. Has anyone else tried propagating Pineapple Guava using tissue culture?

    Reply
    1. Exotic Fruits Team

      That’s an interesting point about grafting Pineapple Guava using a rootstock with high disease resistance ratings. I’ve found that ‘Nana’ and ‘Meiwa’ are both good options, but it’s also important to consider the compatibility of the rootstock with the scion variety. I’ve had success with grafting ‘Nana’ with ‘Coolidge’ and ‘Meiwa’ with ‘Arctic Star’. When it comes to rooting hormone concentration, I’ve found that 0.1% IBA is a good starting point, but it may need to be adjusted depending on the specific variety and environmental conditions. Have you experimented with different rooting hormone concentrations and seen any significant differences in success rates?

      Reply